Category:Glove Making

From Eurêka

Contents 1 Gloving 2 Glove Makers 3 Cutting 4 Parts Of Glove

Gloving

• See also Glove leathers

• See also Gloves, Clothes

Gloving Domestic industry undertaken mainly by women. The skins of sheep, kids, deer and horses were used.

Glove Makers

Master glover Guildsman who organized the glove trade.

Glover (EnE, archaic) Dealer or maker of gloves.

Gaunter (EnE, archaic) Glove maker.

Wet glover (EnE, archaic) Leather glove maker.

Cutter Person who cuts out the basic pattern.

Sewers Women and children who sewed gloves, especially a cottage industry.

Cutting

Taxing Determining the number of gloves that can be cut from a skin. Allowances must be made for imperfections.

Cutting Process of cutting leather into parts to make a glove.

1. Table cutting Hand cutting method that ensures perfect fit for a specified hand size.
2. Pattern cutting Hand method that is not as exact as table cutting.
3. Block cutting Machine method using dies to stamp out the trank and other pieces.

Slitting Trank is slit at the fingers and a hole cut for the thumb.

Parts Of Glove

Trank Palm, back and fingers of the glove.

Fourchettes Narrow strips of leather on the side of the finger.

Quirks Triangular inserts at the base of the fingers and thumb.

Thumb Separate piece of material, the thumb is stitched to the trank. There are four types:

1. Set-in Round thumb that is cut in one piece and has no quirk, used in inexpensive gloves.
2. English (Bolton) Thumb quirk is cut in one piece with the back and palm, giving an excellent fit and is used for top quality gloves.
3. French Round thumb with a quirk inserted at the base of the thumb.
4. Inserted keyhole Thumb insert extends to the end of the glove, there is no seam at the curved base of the thumb.

Pointing (Silking) Sewing of the decorative stitching found on the back of most gloves.

Sewing Thumb, fourchettes and quirks are sewn in place, and the fingers and sides are closed:

1. Piqué One edge of the leather is lapped over the other and sewn.
2. Inseam Glove is turned inside out and seamed.
3. Half-piqué Combination of the piqué and inseam. The back of the fingers is sewn piqué; the palm side of the fingers have an inseam.

Outseam General term used to describe seams sewn on the outside of the glove. The more popular variations are:

1. Overseam Stitches pass over the two edges of the leather.
2. Whipstich Overseam popular in sports gloves.
3. Prixseam (PXM) Variation of the outseam made on a special machine. The stitches run horizontally.

Donkey Wooden stand to hold gloves for sewing.

Drop Ornamentation of the cuff of a glove which had become pointed, 14th cent.

Pied de roi (Fr, lit = king’s foot) First system of glove sizes developed in 1834 by Xavier Jouvin of Grenoble. He established a system by measuring the hand around its widest part at the knuckles. Finger lengths varied and hands were best grouped by comparing their widths.